"I open a Fashion Magazine; I see that two different garments are being dealt with here. The first is the one presented to me as photographed or drawn - it is IMAGE CLOTHING. The second is the same garment, but described, transformed into language; this dress, photographed on the right, becomes on the left: a leather belt, with a rose stuck in it, worn above the waist, on a soft shetland dress; this is a WRITTEN GARMENT...

Changes in Fashion appear regular if we consider a relatively long historical duration, and irregular if we reduce this duration to the few years preceding the time at which we place ourselves; regular from afar and anarchic up close, fashion thus seems to posses two durations: one strictly HISTORICAL, the other what could be called MEMORABLE, because it puts into play the memory a woman can have of the fashions which have preceded the fashion of a given year."


Taking as a starting point the seminal work on fashion written in 1967 by French philosopher Roland Barthes, Chiara De Franciscis transfers the original considerations to the looks of the '90s through blown up fashion shots from different VOGUE issues. The images are remixed in an idiosyncratic way together with quotes sourced from the collections descriptions.
VG90 is an artist-book that presents the Fashion System through the reworking of the original Barthes' concepts of image clothing vs. written garment and historical vs. memorable. The 90's Fashion System is seen here not only as the era that gave rise to the status of fashion designers and the birth of supermodels, but also as the origin of the system's dramatic changes we see today.




Softcover / 60 pages / 29 x 21cm / Limited Edition of 50
Using Format